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Kenya safari – the end

Fri, 25 Nov 2011 00:00:00 -1100

To vacate our African safari room at Tortilis at the earliest possible time, we packed our bags before heading off on our early morning game drive. We would normally have a shower after the morning game drive and leave the packing until then but our next Kenya safari destination is not very far away, so we can delay our shower until then.

Our bags have wended their way to reception by the time we return from our combined game drive and bush breakfast – so it is just a matter of bidding farewell to our hosts – then we are on our way again – to what is the last Kenya safari lodge on our agenda this trip.

When we consider the foreboding clouds swirling around Africa’s most famous mountain heralding the short November rains, we are not surprised to hear that we are the only African safari guests in camp! Perched on the now very damp slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro in a 9,000 acre conservancy, Satao Elerai offers guests panoramic vistas across Amboseli National Park. As African safari lodges go, this one is rather uniquely constructed from local mud-brick and acacia branches – there does not seem to be a straight line in the place as the walls, doorways and windows follow the twists and turns of the once thorny branches. The dining room opens to a verandah with a swimming pool secreted behind a stone wall.

Since this is the end of a very busy trip in which we visited no less than 21 African safari lodges in 18 days, our energy is spent! So apart from a quick afternoon game drive around the soggy conservancy, we are happy to stick around the camp and are congratulating ourselves on being ready to head back on the road a couple of hours earlier than planned.

The rain, which has been steadily falling since our arrival yesterday, has done nothing to improve the state of the appalling 5km African safari access road, so we slip and slide, inching our way back to civilization from this remote Kenya safari lodge. No doubt frustrated with our pitiful progress, Julius hits the throttle a little too hard on one of the bends and wedges the 4x4 on a large immovable rock in the brown, sticky, gluggy mud!! Try as he might he cannot budge it. John, despairing of ever getting out of here, has managed to persuade him to call for assistance from the African safari personnel we have just farewelled!! Despite their assurances of assistance, we wait and we wait but there is no sign of rescue as the rain continues to fall.

Bemoaning our fate, I realize that things are rarely so bad that they cannot get any worse! At that moment, sitting marooned in the bush my delicate digestive system picks this less than perfect time to rebel against East African safari food! Tentatively opening the 4x4 door, to the vociferous objection of a very forlorn looking Julius, soaked to the skin with mud up to his ears – “No Miss Hilary! No you must not come out!” “Get out of my way Julius – if there was any other alternative, trust me I would take it!!” Taking the view on rising this morning that our Kenya safari was over, since we are now on our long journey home, I am dressed in my comfortable white travelling clothes, complete with white socks, white shoes and white pants rather than the muted khaki and beige appropriate to African safari!

We have been lodged in the mud for well over an hour now and are beginning to doubt the assurances from the Kenya safari lodge staff that a rescue team is on its way, when we spot a couple of bedraggled locals approaching on foot – a fat lot of help they will be!!! It transpires that the rescue vehicle itself has become stuck in the mud further along the track! So now we have three people all pulling in different directions to get us out of our current predicament – John is somehow managing to keep his own counsel – much to my chagrin as I’m sure he has a much better chance of figuring out how to extract ourselves than this bunch of amateurs (however eager and well meaning they may be!)

Two hours have now passed and hope of release from our muddy bonds is fading fast, so the appearance of another local approaching clutching some tools doesn’t even fan the extinguished embers of hope! In despair I implore any guiding angels to intercede and bingo we are free to wend our laborious way home!! I am at last beginning to feel that I might live after all – though I very quickly decide it is best to limit Kenya safari travel to air or shored up with calmative drugs!

My white attire never recovered from the trip and the experience has taught me to stick to my muted African safari gear until we reach the relative civilization of a city!

Africa holidays

Tue, 27 Sep 2011 00:00:00 -1100

We emerge from the relative tranquility of the Arusha Coffee Lodge into the absolute chaos of Arusha traffic. There are either no road rules here or no one seems to observe them – which makes for a very different African safari experience! The relative sanity of traffic lights or even the civilized South African 4-way stops are a world away from here so I can only resort to closing my eyes tight as we zigzag through the traffic-clotted intersection! If Marcel Proust was correct in believing that “we travel in search not of new sights, but of new eyes with which to see everything” then Africa holidays are bound to significantly alter our vision!

The thunder of fully laden trucks regularly drowns out the whipper-snipper noise of the low-powered Toyo (Chinese) motorbikes that dart in and out of the traffic. Amazed to see three or four riders hanging on to these grown up mopeds, we learn that they have become a popular taxi for the locals. Not surprising therefore that the local hospital has a dedicated “toyo” ward for the inevitable injuries. Between the toyos and the matatus (minibuses also used as taxis but obviously with a larger passenger capacity), drivers really need the eyes and wits of an African safari guide to navigate the deluge! Talking about matatus, it was reported recently in the British media that an African matatu driver was arrested for dangerous driving when he was stopped with 36 passengers in a 13 passenger capacity vehicle – thus Africa holidays that include travel in East Africa are guaranteed to give us a new perspective – perhaps our rush-hour trains are not too crowded after all!!

We pull up outside another coffee estate which houses Shanga’s River House – a popular lunch spot for transiting African safari goers. The restaurant and adjacent craft works are the brainchild of Saskia, whose husband owns the coffee plantation which accommodates them. Shanga blossomed from Saskia’s creative idea to craft some simple jewelry for a Christmas fair at which the artistic jewelry sold like hotcakes! In need of more hands to fill the orders, Saskia decided to engage the disabled sister of her house-keeper. Shanga (which in Swahili means “bead”) has grown from that modest beginning to now employ 34 disabled Tanzanians. It is completely self sustaining without any governmental support and continues to create jewellery from glass bottles and coffee bush trimmings discarded by the coffee industry. With a motto of “kindness is a language blind people see and deaf people hear”, there is no shortage of inspiration for those lucky enough to include Shanga on their Africa holidays itinerary. Though visitors to Africa sometimes overlook the rich cultural offering in pursuit of an African safari experience, but what a pity it would be to miss the experience of a visit to Shanga. All too soon it is time to depart from this tranquil oasis filled with warm smiling faces, creative spirits and inventive minds but with an everlasting memory and renewed hope for the future of mankind.

African Safaris

Thu, 15 Sep 2011 00:00:00 -1100

Good news for the rest of my African safari: the Avon skin so soft insect repellent appears to have protected me from tsetse bites, while John, who decided to take his chances, is scratching away – but then without an overreaction to bites like me – he doesn’t need to share my paranoia!

After two blissful days at Serengeti Bushtops, during which we availed of all the extra “African safaris” facilities it offers including relaxing hot tubs, extended massages and, not unusually for most African safaris, too much gourmet food, we are on our way again. Kokan, a guide in training drives us to the nearby Kogatende airstrip in plenty of time to allow for any last minute changes in the light aircraft schedule. In relative terms Kogatende is a very swanky airstrip on the bank of the Mara River, with plenty of shade and an added bonus – a spotlessly clean loo with running water!

Our flight takes off as scheduled and as usual the guide waits to wave us goodbye, making sure his client are safely on their way! We have a couple of shuttle stops on our way to Arusha. At Grumeti we are joined by a very excited bunch of French tourists who clearly have enjoyed their respective African safaris! Despite its full cargo our little aircraft drones off skyward.

The flight path takes us over Ol Doinyo Lenai (translated from Swahili means Mountain of God – since it is a still active volcano it surely must be a very fierce God!) Armed with cameras we all vie for a window – gone are the days of simply immersing oneself in an experience – these days experiences are more likely to be encountered at a distance through a viewfinder – I’m sure we’re missing something – and not only on African safaris! Below us is what I imagine a moonscape would look like with the sides of the cone shaped mountain covered with fine grey/brown dust. Ol Doinyo Lenai is unusual in that the lava it emits is only half the temperature of most volcanoes – thus it has been referred to as a “toy volcano” because its diminutive flows are cool enough to collect with a spoon though still hot enough to burn through a shirt.

Our East African safari ground operators are there to meet us on arrival in Arusha telling us that we have one stop to make on our way to lunch. We are scheduled to meet the new managers who have recently been appointed to manage Arusha Coffee Lodge. This is a good starting point for the more fit and able-bodied who want to combine their African safari with a climb of Kilimanjaro – an endeavour that should be tried only by the most hardy of souls, bearing in mind that it is over 5,800 meters high!

We take the new manager, Tracey by surprise exclaiming with horror at the décor of the proudly presented newly refurbished room, dominated as it is with a tasteless lighted glass panel like a gargantuan small-pocked jam-jar just inside the door! Hurriedly she assures us that not all rooms are due to be refurbished and all we have to do for our African safari clients is to request a standard rather than a plantation room. She hurriedly adds the sweetener that the (preferable) old-fashioned rooms are cheaper than the updated monstrosities! With the formalities completed, we have to decline Tracey’s kind invitation to stay for lunch as we must keep forever on the move to take in everything we’ve planned on our familiarization African safaris.

African Safari

Wed, 07 Sep 2011 00:00:00 -1100

Awash with picnic packs, with a set being sent from the Serengeti Bushtops as well as the one given to us when departing Mara Bushtops, we are waved on by the village police when Charles pulls up as instructed to produce his passengers – one thing’s for sure – there is no chance of going hungry on African safaris tanzania!

Tomorrow is election day in Tanzania, and preparations are in full swing with every village festooned with flags and political po sters. Party political broadcasting vehicles belting out messages compete with the soap-box politicians preaching to the faithful gathered at street corners. Perhaps it is just as well we are staying put at an African safari camp tomorrow as we witness groups of uniformed men in the process of training for any trouble that might arise! Even better that it is reputedly an ideal venue for the more luxurious of African safaris!

Five very bumpy hours later we roll up to a brand spanking new African safari camp that is clearly the very epitome of luxury (at least in terms of East African safaris.) Serengeti Bushtops has only been open for about a month and is the Tanzanian sister of the fabulous Mara Bushtops Camp which succeeded in spoiling us rotten in the last couple of days. The sand coloured canvass and natural wood of the tents blend seamlessly into the blond grass and appear to float on their wooden platforms, leaving this pristine African safari wilderness appear largely undisturbed.

Serengeti Bushtops is almost uniquely located in the woodland area of the western section of the northern Serengeti, directly in the path of the migrating wildebeest and zebra and a mere 15 miles from a couple of well tramped Mara River crossing points! Thus is it an ideal location for those seeking the adventure of East African safaris but without sacrificing life’s little luxuries! Being relatively unchartered African safari territory, the game tends to be more skittish as they have not yet been acclimatized to vehicles or people and one gets the feeling that your little party are the only humans in this wilderness.

As we meander through the diverse landscapes of woodland, rocky kopjies, savanna plains and riverine areas, Charles, a reformed hunter now turned African safari guide, keeps us entranced with his expansive knowledge of the wildlife as well as stories from his hunting days – including a delightful story about an adult female kudu who rushed out of the bush with two lionesses hanging on trying to bring her down and into Charles “room”. Taking refuge on the bed, she was determined not to move until the lions eventually gave up and went away. Having gotten Charles scent from the bed which “saved her”, the kudu sought him out for a thank you nuzzle. She stayed with her new found friend for a month until the authorities came and took her away saying that domestication of wild animals was not allowed – failing to appreciate that she was staying there of her own volition!

Competing for our attention with the savage tsetse flies are relatively rarely seen little antelopes called oribi – another version of bambi! Hopefully our friend in the Zambezi valley was right when she claimed that Avon skin so soft insect repellent is (unlike most other insect repellants) effective to ward off tsetses. I have drowned myself in the stuff this morning in the hopes of avoiding the nasty boil like reaction I get to the bites of these horrible little bastards – Africa, they say, is not for sissies but this sissy refuses to stay away! Living proof that Africa is indeed like malaria – once it gets into your blood, you can never recover!

Wildlife Safari – In Transit

Mon, 08 Aug 2011 00:00:00 -1100

Today we are scheduled to try out a new wildlife safari route connecting Mara Bushtops with its new sister camp in the Serengeti. The Sienna airstrip, where we will catch one of the little shuttle busses of the sky, is only 15 minutes or so from the lodge. But before we depart the owners of the lodges, who very graciously flew in from Mombasa yesterday to meet us, have an unusual request – would we please bring a new room sign to Serengeti Bushtops because the hyenas ate the last one!! As avid wildlife safari goers we are aware that hyenas aren’t fussy eaters and can digest almost anything – but a room sign – now that’s ridiculous!

Armed with our curious cargo, we land at the new airstrip just outside Migori to find that that’s all it is – literally an airstrip without even a shed or a tree to distinguish it. But more disconcerting still, there is no one there to meet us! Our bags, which have already been unloaded, look rather forlorn and out of place on the cropped grass! Conscious that the pilot has a busy schedule to keep, we urge him to continue on as we are very experienced wildlife safari goers – but he’s not having any of it!! The rule of the bush is that under no circumstances must a pilot or indeed even a driver abandon wildlife safari clients in the middle of nowhere! So having radioed the dilemma through to his headquarters, our conscientious pilot insists on staying put! Half-an-hour later, just as the now rather agitated pilot resolves to take us on to his next stop if our envoy does not arrive in the next few minutes, an advancing cloud of dust heralds the imminent arrival of our belated welcoming committee!

A very flustered Charles punctuates his profuse apologies with the story of his epic journey to collect us. It appears that the road to our next wildlife safari destination, Serengeti Bushtops, passes through gold mining country on the Tanzanian side of the border. More appropriate to the Wild West than wildlife safari country, a massive bank robbery was apparently mounted last night in the adjacent village during which 9 people were killed including 3 local police. The perpetrators, who escaped with millions, have not as yet been apprehended and needless to say the local constabulary are on high alert with everyone under suspicion. Queue a large 4x4 charging through the distressed village as Charles, pressed for time to precede us to the Migori airstrip and ignorant of night’s drama, charges through the village – cops hot on his tail but apparently unable to attract his attention for at least 30 kilometers! 30 kilometers is a long, long way on these unforgiving, rock strewn dirt roads, certainly long enough to convince the pursuing cops they must apprehend the escapee when they catch him, which they finally do!! So our poor wildlife safari driver, Charles is dragged back for a grilling at the village cop shop! Since the airstrip at Migori is relatively new, his claim to be en route to pick up some wildlife safari clients, strikes the anxious cops as implausible – eventually following a search of the vehicle which reveals only wildlife safari paraphernalia and some picnic packs for his prospective passengers, Charles is released on condition that he stop by the cop shop on his way back and produce these mythical passengers!

While all’s well that ends well, we decide that despite the convenience of transiting directly from the Masai Mara to the Serengeti rather than via Nairobi or Kilimanjaro. We are not comfortable to risk a delay in our clients being collected at Migori notwithstanding the non-abandonment rule of the bush! This is why we make sure to visit every lodge we use and try out the various route ourselves, to iron out all the potential problems before our clients get there! Our experience highlighted a flaw in the route – although what are the chances of another bank robbery the night before someone has to be picked up at Migori but other problems can arise – so we were relieved when we learned of the proposal to substitute less fraught transfer arrangement. Now Kenya safari clients who also want to experience the Serengeti can be met in Migori and transferred a short distance just across the Tanzanian border to another airstrip to continue their journey by air – much better than a bone-shattering road trip past gold-mining villages – keeping the adventure strictly for the wildlife safari itself!

Kenya Safari – the end (for now)

Tue, 02 Aug 2011 00:00:00 -1100

We have planned to spend this the last day of our current Kenya safari on a full-day game drive in the Masai Mara. We start off by taunting Daniel, our guide that “there are no leopards in the Mara! We have been here several times and never seen a leopard. Therefore we must conclude that there are none!” While no doubt just as committed to ensuring clients have an awe-inspiring Kenya safari as our friend Julius, Daniel’s response is much more muted – “Ah” he says, “if you want to see leopards then I know where we must go!” and sure enough off we went and before long old (or rather young) x-ray eyes, Senna, our tracker, points to a tree supporting, at least for the moment, a little female leopard.

Unfortunately, the halt in our progress has been noticed by one of the scourges of a Kenya safari, a matatu (a minibus which is a cheap form of Kenya safari transport, ill-equipped for the terrain). Aware of the custom of matatus to flock together, we caution the driver to stay off the radio – hoping to prevent this poor leopard from being hounded by the madding crowd! However, the leopard, setting her own agenda, climbs down from her resting place and saunters into the bush! Not particularly conversant with the habits of the wildlife, or perhaps just hastening to the next “sight” now that the leopard has been ticked off the “to see” list, the matatu driver careers off in search of the next Kenya safari “sight”. More privileged in our terrain appropriate 4x4 and guided by a local passionate about Kenya safari wildlife, we track the progress of the leopard as she moves stealthily through the bush. We believe that she is on her way to check up on the two cubs she has secreted away somewhere along the now dry river bed. Eventually as the bush thickens, we lose sight of her – it’s time to leave her in peace anyway! Time also for a pit-stop – or as some might politely put it – time to check the vehicle’s tyres!!

We think Senna is kidding us when, having settled back in the vehicle, he points to a tree at least 200 yards away, claiming to see another leopard! Sure enough lazily reclining on a horizontal branch, shrouded in shade, panting as a result of his very full stomach, lies a large male leopard. The remains of the wildebeest carcass firmly secured in the web of branches behind him, what amazing strength these beautiful creatures have! He’s not going anywhere for quite a while! But its time for us to move off, the wildlife safari paparazzi among us having photographed him from every angle!

Julius will be so mad when we tell him that the day after he left we found not one, but two leopards! Although we will enjoy teasing him, we fully appreciate that, conscientious and all as he is, Julius cannot know every square kilometer of every Kenya safari reserve and that the local guides are bound to have more detailed knowledge of their local area. As we meander along, we learn that Daniel, our guide, as well as having extensive general wildlife knowledge is an accredited rhino specialist. He also talks about the local customs and culture – his youthful idealism shining through – I’m sure he will help to make the world a better place!

As we watch a small group of silly gnus run hither and thither, x-ray eyes, Senna spots two relaxed young lions concealed amid the shade of a bushy outcrop eying the gamboling wildebeest with disinterest – they must have had a good meal recently as they are easily within striking distance!

Then it is time to head back to the lodge for a relaxing soak in the hot tub, strategically placed on the deck of our tent or perhaps a massage would be an appropriate end to the last day of our current Kenya safari.

Kenya Safari – the end minus 1

Mon, 18 Jul 2011 00:00:00 -1100

Sated with good food and stimulated by scintillating lunch-time conversation, we drive the short distance to the Sekanani gate to meet the representatives of the last Kenya safari lodge on our agenda (at least for now!) noticing, as we pass by, the proliferation of whistling acacias, so named because of the noise that emanates as the wind whistles through the bulbous growths on their thorny branches, which it transpires serve as nests for tiny ants. The symbiotic relationship with the ants adds another element of defence to this particular acacia against browsers in addition to the forbidding looking thorns and tannin producing leaves!

We bid a fond farewell to our Kenya safari driver, who in the last eight days has become our friend. Cautioning him to drive carefully on his long (in terms of endurance rather than distance) journey back to Nairobi!

After introductions are made to our new guide Daniel and tracker Senna, we drive out through the Mara gate through the gauntlet of locals peddling their beaded wares. Mara Bushtops, our next Kenya safari destination is located in a Conservation area adjacent to the Masai Mara, a 15 minute drive from the Sekanani gate. Georges, the French manager gives us the run-down on the protocols and introduces us to our private butler who leads us to our tent, one of only 12, all of which command a sweeping view over the conservation. We are glad to grab a couple of hours of down time as our familiarization Kenya safari has been anything but a holiday. So we are delighted to recline for a couple of hours in the most unusual tent we have ever seen, being as it is, open on three sides (during the day). No detail appears to have been missed in setting up this Kenya safari lodge – which even extends to decorating the brilliantly white towels with curled red hibiscus buds!

Eventually it is time to uproot our rather unique “do not disturb” sign – an asagai (Masaai spear) stuck into a hole in the entrance path to the tent and head out on our afternoon game drive, a very leisurely affair around the conservation. We sit and watch a group of 5 retired general buffalo chomping away! As they move off, a small herd of elephants meander towards the waterhole, preferring to walk downwind to better cool their ears! Elephants are such fascinating creatures, we could watch them all day but as the sun is setting, it’s time for our sundowner beside a blazing fire – Africa’s 1 channel TV! As we tear ourselves away from the mesmerizing flames, the cry of an owl pierces through the tranquil dusk – the ominous sound apparently heralding the death of someone nearby!

Thinking that dinner in all Kenya safari establishments is a rather casual affair, at least in terms of attire, we decide not to change for dinner! Big mistake we realize too late as we are welcomed into an elegant stone building that now serves as the dining room, complete with sparkling glassware and white tablecloths starched to within an inch of their lives!

The dining room’s décor has us fascinated with teardrop shaped lights suspended from the branches of a now (obviously very dead) tree, French windows opening out onto the veranda that accommodates less formal dining and everything cheered by a blazing fire in the enormous hearth. Consistent with the elegant accommodation, the menu, presentation and taste of the delicious food would not be out of place in any city based gourmet restaurant!

Mindful of our full-day Kenya safari commitment tomorrow, we decide it is time to call for our “taxi” home! Almost instantly our Askari appears wielding the spear with which he will defend us should any nearby predators seek to put us on their menu!

Kenya Safari continued II

Mon, 11 Jul 2011 00:00:00 -1100

With lunch time fast approaching, we need to cease our meanderings and focus on our next Kenya safari appointment at Mara Sarova, which has the distinction of being the first camp inside the Reserve gate on the road from Nairobi. While it is referred to as a camp, it is really a large fenced resort with 75 “rooms”, some of which cater specifically for families. Being horrendously bad with numbers, I resist the temptation to try and calculate how many people that would accommodate, suffice it to say, a large number.

We are warmly welcomed by the Beverage Manager (as it is a lunch appointment), who very conscientiously though misguidedly (perhaps not realizing our over-indulgence at the buffet) leads us around every inch of the 27 acres of the meticulously maintained and beautifully laid-out property – unfortunately under the glare of the rather unforgiving Kenya safari sun!

As we sit back in our 4x4, recovering from our post-prandial exercise while swatting the pesky flies with our aromatic fly-swatter, a stalk of wild mint, we ponder the extent to which Mara Sarova’s well equipped business centre would be used by Kenya safari clientele! Thankfully most of the flying irritants are the common fly, but the angry bite on my hand would indicate that there is at least one tsetse among them – so I am on high alert!

We rock and roll our way along the rutted tracks to the next Kenya safari camp on our agenda, the approach to which is not very inviting, patrolled as it is by marabou storks in their funeral-like attire! We are not very taken with this camp, though as usual in all our Kenya safaris (indeed all African safaris in our experience) the staff are delightful, warm, friendly and helpful. Because of the warm hospitality offered to us, this less than salubrious camp shall remain nameless.

We were intrigued to see, just across the river from our room, a completely blond juvenile baboon – is this the albino version of these troublesome creatures? We were happy to deduce that, although different to the rest of the troop, he (or perhaps she) had been accepted as part of the gang.

Having eliminated this camp as a destination for our clients, John was most embarrassed when, with sonorous fanfare, he was presented with a cake, complete with sparklers and a welcome message! Although much appreciated, this thoughtful gesture did not change our minds about excluding the camp from our list of recommended places.

We were happy to depart this nameless but less than exciting Kenya safari camp, albeit disappointed that we had not managed to catch another glimpse of the blond baboon. We have an appointment at the park gate with our next hosts but in the meantime we have to fit in another inspection and lunch.

Despite our early arrival, an effusive welcome awaits us from our lunchtime hostess, Suzy, the Manager at a newly established Kenya safari camp, Entomoto. Suzy, a very enthusiastic, third or fourth generation Kenyan regales us with stories during, what is a much too short, lunch-time. Our enquiry as to how a beauty and reiki therapist has managed to find herself in this remote neck of the woods, elicits details of her multi-dimensional career which included (if my memory serves me correctly) a stint in film related work as well as project management of the establishment of a holiday resort in the Sudan! Her role here at Entomoto makes more sense when Suzy explains that the owners have planned to add a spa and swimming pool to the camp and to offer massage and relaxing weekends – which is probably a good idea since the camp is spread along the slope of a steep hill and the activities on offer include walking and mountain-biking! Though the less energetic can rely on 4x4 transfers to their rooms!

The aroma of our absolutely divine lunch, including fresh veggies from the camp garden served in little tempura bunches proved much more appetizing to Ella the eland than her normal cuisine and a very eager horned head appeared at the window! At least she got a consolation prize at the end – a couple of bananas (her favourite food) which were consumed in an instant, complete with skin!

As time presses on, so must we as there is no time to linger on our familiarization Kenya safari! We bid Suzy a fond goodbye – urging her as we do, to hold on to her “little spark of madness” as there aren’t enough of us nuts in the world to add a bit of colour to the fabric of life!

Kenya Safari continued

Mon, 04 Jul 2011 00:00:00 -1100

After proffering our sincere thanks to a beaming (appropriately named Boniface) assistant manager of Mara Intrepid, we hit the road again. We still have a few hours before our next appointment which is not too far away. Thus Julius decides to show us what Kenya safari clients would experience in the south of the Masai Mara reserve – this long winding route gives us the impression that the Masai Mara is much larger than its mere 1,510 square kilometers, especially when you take into account the conservancies that surround the National Park with their own unique attractions (eg night drives, indigenous life as well as wildlife).

Not long into this morning’s Kenya safari meander, we come across two juvenile giraffes peering at us from behind the bush – they must have temporarily escaped from the clutches of the nursery they should have been in – very cute! Our next encounter is also quite delightful – three infant topis who we estimate to be only a few hours old tottering along clinging to their respective moms.

We eventually persuade Julius to answer his persistent mobile phone (although quite incongruous in these natural surroundings, probably no less so than radios). It is for John – Otieno our Kenya safari ground operator’s logistics manager conscientiously checking, as he does for all our clients, that everything is working as it should.

We have arrived in a lush oasis of rolling hills and (at least now at the end of October) verdant little valleys where we witness proud ostrich parents taking their brood of fluffy offspring for a morning stroll! Following this display of familial harmony, we come across a most unusual sight even for a Kenya safari (or indeed any wildlife safari), a group of seven or eight adult giraffe lying down relaxing, albeit with necks and heads erect to ensure continued blood supply to the brain. Even John, the doyen of African safaris with over 2,000 game drives to his credit, has never seen a reclining giraffe before – little wonder given that they can only do so for about 30 minutes at a stretch (forgive the pun!) We give them a wide berth to avoid alarming them, tip-toeing as best we can in an enormous 4x4.

This Kenya safari has delivered us a number of firsts, well first for me at least – balloon safari, pangolin, caracal and now reclining giraffes.

The denuded Sand River corridor is a stark contrast to the lush oasis which we passed through such a short time ago – understandable then that it appears (at least at this time of the year) to be a resting place for former gnus! I hope the story Julius tells us here is fiction – that the Tanzanians are reported to have burned the vegetation close to the border in an attempt to thwart the migration and keep the animals in the Serengeti! However, the “far away hills are green” instinct built into the gnus and their zebra travelling companions, mercifully for Kenya safari goers, doom such attempts to failure!

Our morning meander allows us to conclude that the south of the Masai Mara is more of a migratory freeway than the more “residential” north – perhaps because of the more prolific rainfall in the north. Happily the square area of the Mara allows the Kenya safari goer the opportunity to traverse the whole area in a relatively short timeframe – after all contrasts are what life is all about!

East African Safari Odyssey continued II

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 00:00:00 -1100

No time to linger on an inspection trip, we head off promptly after lunch for our next African safari destination, Mara Intrepid, a Heritage Hotel property in the centre of the Masai Mara on the banks of the Talek River (which joins the Mara River.) Mara Intrepid, though rather large, is a beautiful camp and offers a multiplicity of activities (apart from game drives) for all ages (children included, for whom the fenced garden offers additional protection from the ubiquitous wildlife.)

At the start of our first African safari game drive from this location, had the amazing fortune to see a pangolin, the armoured car of the bush, who is more of a nocturnal creature (but maybe the heavy cloud had confused him into thinking night was fast approaching!) Not long after this rather exciting sighting we came across an elusive and very shy caracal, easily recognisable by his Dr Spock ears. After our exhilarating African safari game drive and a very long day, we arrive back at camp eager for a hot shower. Unfortunately having wasted quite a bit of water, the hot tap continued to produce only cold water! Now while John is much more robust than me, taking “authentic” African safaris, pub-crawls on horseback and other adventurous endeavours in his stride, he draws the line at cold showers! Thankfully the response to his protest was immediate with the faulty tap being fixed instantly! Recognising that it is unreasonable to expect nothing to go wrong on an African safari (or any trip for that matter) we consider the measure of competence to be in the timing and the adequacy of the response – so full marks to Mara Intrepid!

Regrettably we must wave goodbye to Julian and Jenny the following morning as their African safari ends with their departure on one of the little aircraft that buzz around the airstrip adjacent to the camp like flies around a cow pat! We abandon the afternoon African safari game drive as the rain and cool temperatures has sent the wildlife in search of shelter – other, of course, than the wildebeest (who don’t seem to have been equipped with a brain and would be better named the bewildered beasts! But then a brain would probably disqualify them for the job of “fodder for predators”!) Brrrrr, the hot water-bottles will be very welcome tonight as I count my blessings that I took John’s advice to bring my ski jacket!

Just as we were about to depart from Mara Intrepid, the assistant manager rushes up to explain that he wants to show us one last thing – but it will require a short trip and directs us into the waiting 4WD. A few minutes later we emerge into a clearing at a rapidly dwindling hippo pool and spread out in front is a breakfast setting fit for a king, complete with brightly coloured tablecloths flapping in the morning breeze and fully attired chef awaiting instructions! Just as well we restricted our morning refreshments to fruit and cereal, conscious as we are of the need to pace ourselves on an African safari to avoid returning home as big as houses! So watched on by wallowing hippos, contentedly back in the water after their night’s grazing, we enjoy a delightful open air African safari breakfast, bathed in sunshine – maisha matamu (sweet life) indeed!

Taking long winding routes between Masai Mara destinations gives us the impression that the National Park is much larger than its mere 1,510 square kilometers.