But these morning tea hippos have clearly finished their grazing for the day and look like they have no intention of emerging from the protection of the water for a long time – boy does that suit me!

First off we must find the ablutions corner – Paddy designates the bush we have just passed as the ladies – to me with my very full bladder, it looks almost ideal!  Armed with a couple of tissues and a doggie poo bag (to store the wet tissues) I am first in the queue.  On moving off again, considerably relieved with an empty bladder, I appreciate just how suitable the bush we chose as the “ablutions block” was compared to the one just past our “tea party” obscuring as it did, an enormous male elephant – as I said Africa safaris are full of surprises.

A very unpleasant surprise followed our morning tea, a white rhino with a bullet wound – unfortunately, it seems poachers have infiltrated the Sabi Sands – the problem is growing and the perpetrators particularly inhumane with no regard for the agony they cause to these poor innocent creatures – you really do hope that karma is not merely imaginary!  Paddy radios in the position of the wounded animal so the local vet can make an assessment of the wound.  Thankfully it seems relatively superficial so we leave the poor injured rhino in the company of his mate and head off in search of our next Africa safaris surprise, which comes in the shape of a couple of 7-month old lion cubs whose mother has unusually kept them apart from the rest of her pride long after they would have become part of the family – in an attempt to protect them from a particularly aggressive male that comes and goes through this reserve. 

Our friend David Blumberg has named the two cubs Frank & Ralph and while they and their Mum are engrossed on a recent kill we harangue David – “you cannot call male lions Frank & Ralph – I mean what were you thinking!!”  “So what’s wrong with the names Frank & Ralph?”  “Honestly David they’re supposed to have big strong names like Kashan or Hercules!!”  “So who made those rules ……”  Still arguing about imaginaryAfricasafaris rules, the noise of the approaching vehicle frightens a clan of dwarf mongoose much to my dismay as I have a real soft spot for the smaller less illustrious wildlife!  Fear not says Paddy “I speak fluent mongoose!” and without further ado he chatters away to these funny little creatures who are teased out one by one – their little heads popping up around the log which moments ago served as their hiding place – Paddy really does speak fluent mongoose!!

As the light of the day begins to fade we head off to an Africa safaris customary activity for this time of day – a sundowner!  Darkness has settled by the time we reach the designated site, where a picnic table has been set up, laden with goodies, underneath a tree festooned with fairy lights and candles – champagne and beer already in the cooler - perhaps this is the enchanted forest??  No just a little birthday treat for one of our jeep companions, a regular visitor to Savanna – as I keep sayingAfricasafaris are full of surprises!

So determined was John not to miss a single game drive of our short wildlife safari (it is always the one you miss that includes the most spectacular sightings) that we had to leave Franschhoek at 3:30 am to connect with the first flight from Cape Town – no hope of a snooze as I battled to interpret “Shiela’s” hopeless pronunciation of the Afrikaans road names as we drove through the foggy darkness (“Shiela” of course being the Australian voice of the South African Garmin navigator!)

We eventually arrived in Savanna with only enough time for a quick change into more appropriate wildlife safari attire and a quick bite to eat before Paddy issues what has become the code to action for those in his vehicle “I’m going to get my toys” – meaning his collection of camera gear!  So we gobble down the last mouthful of a  usually scrumptious dessert, a quick pee and we’re off on another wildlife safari!

First stop is the nearby den currently housing eight 7-week old wild dog pups (also called painted dogs)  Mum and another pack female are forever on the alert at the den pacing back and forth, never staying still – just watching the highly-strung activity of wild dog is exhausting!  We wait and we wait – waiting forms a large part of a wildlife safari – and eventually among high pitched yelping, the first little pup appears, followed soon after by his litter mates and there we stay entranced by the activity beneath the contorted branches of the scocia tree that stands like a sentry over the den’s entrance.  Unfortunately a tuft of grass partly obscures the entrance to the den and thereby becomes immortalized in many hours of video by the avid wildlife safari photographers in our midst!

One brave little pup inches her way toward us, her curiosity leading her ever forward until Mum, falling short in her off-spring head-count, truncates the adventure – that little one will be a pack leader one day!

Eventually it is time to make way for another vehicle - one of the laudable element of a Sabi Sands wildlife safari is the limit on the number of vehicles allowed on a “sighting” so as to avoid harassing the wildlife – this is in marked contrast to a Kenya wildlife safari where the herds of matatus (cheap East African wildlife safari minibus transport) are observed among the herds of zebra and wildebeest!

Our next wildlife safari “sighting” is Tlangisa, a two-year-old female leopard, who would have just recently become independent from her mother and so in need of her own territory.  Having followed her for a while, we thought she was going to settle in a tree, when all of a sudden, down she jumps and off she scarpers!  Eventually the reason for her quick departure comes into focus – Metsi, another female leopard and one of her cubs surveying their territory from a neighbouring tree!  Thus the focus of our wildlife safari switches quickly from one leopard to another – a real wildlife safari treat, given the very elusive nature of this beautiful cat!

It’s easy to get there with direct flights from Sydney and Perth

It is easy to get around with great roads and reliable competitive airlines

It’s easy to find Africa holidays accommodation and activities to suit all tastes

And above all it is the easiest of all Africa holidays destinations to afford with the Australian dollar consistently very strong against the South African Rand

But it does not end there – our all time favourite lodge for Africa holidays, Savanna Private Game Reserve, is located in South Africa

It helps that this favourite lodge is located in, what is arguably the best leopard viewing wildlife reserve in the world, and which offers great and varied game viewing in the lap of luxury.

South Africa is also one of the richest botanical kingdoms in the world with at least 8,000 species of flowers and herbs.  The best place to investigate the amazing variety of vegetation is the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens in Cape Town.  Cape Town has recently nudged out Dublin and Bilbao for the title of World Design Capital for 2014.

But Cape Town’s Africa holidays accolades do not end there – it was awarded top honours at the TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice 2011 Destinations Awards.  Of course this would come as no surprise to anyone who has visited what is referred as “the Mother City” as it is impossible not to fall under her spell with “tourist brochure views” at every turn, unique adventure activities such as abseiling off the face of Table Mountain or for a less extreme encounter with the iconic mountain, hiking the varied experience-level trails! 

Then of course there is outstanding shopping in Kloof and Long streets ranging from antiques and collectables to arts and crafts and in the more upmarket waterfront shops African textiles and jewellery (not limited to South African diamonds and the relatively soon to be rare tanzanite).  Then there is the ready accessibility to a plethora of fascinating Africa holidays tourist attractions such as the picturesque Garden Route and the Cape Winelands. 

Less than an hour’s drive out of the city will take you to the renowned vinyards of the Cape Estates established by the Hugeunots three hundred years ago with their Cape Dutch architecture set against the dramatic backdrop of a series of mountain ranges. 

Any Africa holidays that find you in Cape Town should not be concluded without at least a day trip to Franschhoek in the winelands – better yet why not make it a couple of days.  Our favourite property in this charming little village is Franschhoek Country House (FCH), a beautiful olde worlde property cradled in the lap of the mountains with French provincial furniture, climbing roses, and fountains everywhere!  FCH also boasts an award winning restaurant serving organic food and local wines as well as a spa – neither of which were enough to keep me from spending hours browsing through the quaint little village shops (much to my husband’s discomfort given that this was only the start of our Southern Africa wide month long trip with a tiresome luggage limitation of 15 kgs – I used to take 15 kgs with me for weekends!!)  My only gripe with Africa holidays is the luggage limitation necessitated by charter flights (ie Botswana, Namibia and Kenya) as I can’t be bothered to store the excess in Joburg or wherever!!

Part 1 of our trip included 3 days in Victoria Falls, this is our 1st glimpse of the sprays from
the  mighty Victoria Falls  from our Motel .

Closer inspection of the Falls

 No better way to see the falls then by helicopter (Ali’s 50th Birthday 6th Oct)

 Our 1st encounters – Jumbo who enjoyed a well deserved treat after our trek, Sylvester a rescued cheetah and a pair of young lions (16 months old) that we decided to take a walk with just for something to do

 We enjoyed a Sundowner Cruise where we saw our 1st elephant in the wild and also hippos, a magnificent sunset was also witnessed

 Part 2 of our trip – arriving at the airstrip for transfer to Little Makalolo Camp 30mins drive from the airstrip for the next 3 days.  Little Makalolo is situated in the Hawange National Park.  Great facilities at the airstrip, flushing loo and running water, and also a driver with a cold drink.

Our tent accommodation was excellent 5 star, inside shower with also an outside shower and bath, we also had a fantastic view as our tent was positioned about 200 metres from a water hole where everyday we viewed an abundance of elephants and other wildlife.  1st night was a bit scary as we had something scratching around our tent all night, found out it was jackals . (phew

Situated at the waterhole is a log curtain were you can sit and view the animals up close.  This was a real thrill, the elephants, know that you are there and keep an eye on you.

After our 1st safari outing with our guide Ernest, we were treated to a lovely welcome from the camp team at a waterhole to enjoy pre dinner drinks and the magnificent sunset.  During this sunset a large number of elephants came for a drink, whilst we were just standing and taking this all in a rustle behind us made us all take notice, a herd of elephants was coming to the waterhole right by where we were positioned. Lucky our trusty guides were there to keep an eye on them.

There were sunset drinks at a different spot every night, just with our guide. 

The team also made us feel really special one night with our own secluded setting  near the pool, with candles in the pool and our own waiter.

Highlight at Little Makalolo was viewing a baby elephant no older than 10 mins, we were positioned on the overside of this water hole when our guide heard a noise coming from a herd of elephants were we watching,  we made our way over to the overside  another vehicle had just left that area.  When we arrived this is what we saw.  The umbilical was still attached .  It was fascinating to just sit and watch the mannerisms of the herd.  They were all  taking care of the baby,  a jackal was positioned very close, so to cover the scent of the new born they were throwing dirt over him.  Also the mother was throwing the placenta around to try and cover that with dirt as to also mask the smell of a new born. This went on for a while, we could have stayed there all night.  A policy at all game parks is that no more than 3 vehicles are present at one area at a time, we let others know of the find, and moved on.

Part 3 of our trip was a 3 day stay in Savanna Private Game Reserve in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve. Here we enjoyed again 5 Star luxury accommodation.  The team at Savanna, made us feel right at home.  We came home at the end of the night drives to a lovely hot bath already drawn with a glass of port.  We  had a lovely dinner out in the game park under the stars and enjoyed some fantastic sunsets.  Being at Savanna was like being on your own safari, we spent time tracking leopards and lions through the day and night, an exhilarating experience.

Our accommodation at Savanna was above our  expectations, a hot bath drawn at the end of every night drive so we could freshen up for dinner.  The outdoor shower was also utilised, felt like you needed a sunhat and glasses On our last night we came home to a lovely setting with rose petals around the bath and a lovely bottle of champagne.  We will definitely visit Savanna again. – The endless mini bar that was included was something we did not expect.

Nature in South Africa: a baby rhino had been killed a couple of days before we arrived,  we viewed one hyena feeding on the carcass then a couple of days later around 15 hyena were feeding on what was left.  We also tracked a leopard that was protecting a kill that she had stolen( an impala),  a young lioness was also feeding on a baby giraffe that they had killed days before (cubs near by).  The vultures  just sit and wait for their turn.

We had found the 2 lioness earlier in the day, and were told that there was a den nearby with cubs, the guides did not go near the den as they mentioned that the cubs will come out when they are ready.  Later that night we come upon the 2 lioness’s feeding (previous slide),  and there were the cubs,  this was the 1st time the guides had viewed the cubs.  Lioness’s travel together,  while one feeds / drinks the other babysits.   The pictures below show another female babysitting 3 cubs,  2 older ones and a young one,  we witness the female calling these back whilst the other mum went to the waterhole. 

Nothing like brotherly love

	Last couple of days were spent relaxing in Sun City

After two blissful days at Serengeti Bushtops, during which we availed of all the extra “African safaris” facilities it offers including relaxing hot tubs, extended massages and, not unusually for most African safaris, too much gourmet food, we are on our way again.  Kokan, a guide in training drives us to the nearby Kogatende airstrip in plenty of time to allow for any last minute changes in the light aircraft schedule.  In relative terms Kogatende is a very swanky airstrip on the bank of the Mara River, with plenty of shade and an added bonus – a spotlessly clean loo with running water!

Our flight takes off as scheduled and as usual the guide waits to wave us goodbye, making sure his client are safely on their way!  We have a couple of shuttle stops on our way to Arusha.  At Grumeti we are joined by a very excited bunch of French tourists who clearly have enjoyed their respective African safaris!  Despite its full cargo our little aircraft drones off skyward. 

The flight path takes us over Ol Doinyo Lenai (translated from Swahili means Mountain of God – since it is a still active volcano it surely must be a very fierce God!)  Armed with cameras we all vie for a window – gone are the days of simply immersing oneself in an experience – these days experiences are more likely to be encountered at a distance through a viewfinder – I’m sure we’re missing something – and not only on African safaris!  Below us is what I imagine a moonscape would look like with the sides of the cone shaped mountain covered with fine grey/brown dust.  Ol Doinyo Lenai is unusual in that the lava it emits is only half the temperature of most volcanoes – thus it has been referred to as a “toy volcano” because its diminutive flows are cool enough to collect with a spoon though still hot enough to burn through a shirt.

Our East African safari ground operators are there to meet us on arrival in Arusha telling us that we have one stop to make on our way to lunch.  We are scheduled to meet the new managers who have recently been appointed to manage Arusha Coffee Lodge.  This is a good starting point for the more fit and able-bodied who want to combine their African safari with a climb of Kilimanjaro – an endeavour that should be tried only by the most hardy of souls, bearing in mind that it is over 5,800 meters high!

We take the new manager, Tracey by surprise exclaiming with horror at the décor of the proudly presented newly refurbished room, dominated as it is with a tasteless lighted glass panel like a gargantuan small-pocked jam-jar just inside the door!  Hurriedly she assures us that not all rooms are due to be refurbished and all we have to do for our African safari clients is to request a standard rather than a plantation room.  She hurriedly adds the sweetener that the (preferable) old-fashioned rooms are cheaper than the updated monstrosities!  With the formalities completed, we have to decline Tracey’s kind invitation to stay for lunch as we must keep forever on the move to take in everything we’ve planned on our familiarization African safaris.

Tomorrow is election day in Tanzania, and preparations are in full swing with every village festooned with flags and political posters.  Party political broadcasting vehicles belting out messages compete with the soap-box politicians preaching to the faithful gathered at street corners.  Perhaps it is just as well we are staying put at an African safari camp tomorrow as we witness groups of uniformed men in the process of training for any trouble that might arise!  Even better that it is reputedly an ideal venue for the more luxurious of African safaris!

Five very bumpy hours later we roll up to a brand spanking new African safari camp that is clearly the very epitome of luxury (at least in terms of East African safaris.)  Serengeti Bushtops has only been open for about a month and is the Tanzanian sister of the fabulous Mara Bushtops Camp which succeeded in spoiling us rotten in the last couple of days.  The sand coloured canvass and natural wood of the tents blend seamlessly into the blond grass and appear to float on their wooden platforms, leaving this pristine African safari wilderness appear largely undisturbed. 

Serengeti Bushtops is almost uniquely located in the woodland area of the western section of the northern Serengeti, directly in the path of the migrating wildebeest and zebra and a mere 15 miles from a couple of well tramped Mara River crossing points!  Thus is it an ideal location for those seeking the adventure of East African safaris but without sacrificing life’s little luxuries!  Being relatively unchartered African safari territory, the game tends to be more skittish as they have not yet been acclimatized to vehicles or people and one gets the feeling that your little party are the only humans in this wilderness. 

As we meander through the diverse landscapes of woodland, rocky kopjies, savanna plains and riverine areas, Charles, a reformed hunter now turned African safari guide, keeps us entranced with his expansive knowledge of the wildlife as well as stories from his hunting days – including a delightful story about an adult female kudu who rushed out of the bush with two lionesses hanging on trying to bring her down and into Charles “room”.  Taking refuge on the bed, she was determined not to move until the lions eventually gave up and went away.  Having gotten Charles scent from the bed which “saved her”, the kudu sought him out for a thank you nuzzle.  She stayed with her new found friend for a month until the authorities came and took her away saying that domestication of wild animals was not allowed – failing to appreciate that she was staying there of her own volition!

Competing for our attention with the savage tsetse flies are relatively rarely seen little antelopes called oribi – another version of bambi!  Hopefully our friend in the Zambezi valley was right when she claimed that Avon skin so soft insect repellent is (unlike most other insect repellants) effective to ward off tsetses.  I have drowned myself in the stuff this morning in the hopes of avoiding the nasty boil like reaction I get to the bites of these horrible little bastards – Africa, they say, is not for sissies but this sissy refuses to stay away!  Living proof that Africa is indeed like malaria – once it gets into your blood, you can never recover!

Armed with our curious cargo, we land at the new airstrip just outside Migori to find that that’s all it is – literally an airstrip without even a shed or a tree to distinguish it.  But more disconcerting still, there is no one there to meet us!  Our bags, which have already been unloaded, look rather forlorn and out of place on the cropped grass!  Conscious that the pilot has a busy schedule to keep, we urge him to continue on as we are very experienced wildlife safari goers – but he’s not having any of it!!  The rule of the bush is that under no circumstances must a pilot or indeed even a driver abandon wildlife safari clients in the middle of nowhere!  So having radioed the dilemma through to his headquarters, our conscientious pilot insists on staying put!  Half-an-hour later, just as the now rather agitated pilot resolves to take us on to his next stop if our envoy does not arrive in the next few minutes, an advancing cloud of dust heralds the imminent arrival of our belated welcoming committee! 

A very flustered Charles punctuates his profuse apologies with the story of his epic journey to collect us.  It appears that the road to our next wildlife safari destination, Serengeti Bushtops, passes through gold mining country on the Tanzanian side of the border.  More appropriate to the Wild West than wildlife safari country, a massive bank robbery was apparently mounted last night in the adjacent village during which 9 people were killed including 3 local police.  The perpetrators, who escaped with millions, have not as yet been apprehended and needless to say the local constabulary are on high alert with everyone under suspicion.  Queue a large 4x4 charging through the distressed village as Charles, pressed for time to precede us to the Migori airstrip and ignorant of night’s drama, charges through the village – cops hot on his tail but apparently unable to attract his attention for at least 30 kilometers!  30 kilometers is a long, long way on these unforgiving, rock strewn dirt roads, certainly long enough to convince the pursuing cops they must apprehend the escapee when they catch him, which they finally do!!  So our poor wildlife safari driver, Charles is dragged back for a grilling at the village cop shop!  Since the airstrip at Migori is relatively new, his claim to be en route to pick up some wildlife safari clients, strikes the anxious cops as implausible – eventually following a search of the vehicle which reveals only wildlife safari paraphernalia and some picnic packs for his prospective passengers, Charles is released on condition that he stop by the cop shop on his way back and produce these mythical passengers!  

While all’s well that ends well, we decide that despite the convenience of transiting directly from the Masai Mara to the Serengeti rather than via Nairobi or Kilimanjaro. We are not comfortable to risk a delay in our clients being collected at Migori notwithstanding the non-abandonment rule of the bush!  This is why we make sure to visit every lodge we use and try out the various route ourselves, to iron out all the potential problems before our clients get there!  Our experience highlighted a flaw in the route – although what are the chances of another bank robbery the night before someone has to be picked up at Migori but other problems can arise – so we were relieved when we learned of the proposal to substitute less fraught transfer arrangement.  Now Kenya safari clients who also want to experience the Serengeti can be met in Migori and transferred a short distance just across the Tanzanian border to another airstrip to continue their journey by air – much better than a bone-shattering road trip past gold-mining villages – keeping the adventure strictly for the wildlife safari itself!

Unfortunately, the halt in our progress has been noticed by one of the scourges of a Kenya safari, a matatu (a minibus which is a cheap form of Kenya safari transport, ill-equipped for the terrain).  Aware of the custom of matatus to flock together, we caution the driver to stay off the radio – hoping to prevent this poor leopard from being hounded by the madding crowd!  However, the leopard, setting her own agenda, climbs down from her resting place and saunters into the bush!  Not particularly conversant with the habits of the wildlife, or perhaps just hastening to the next “sight” now that the leopard has been ticked off the “to see” list, the matatu driver careers off in search of the next Kenya safari “sight”.  More privileged in our terrain appropriate 4x4 and guided by a local passionate about Kenya safari wildlife, we track the progress of the leopard as she moves stealthily through the bush.  We believe that she is on her way to check up on the two cubs she has secreted away somewhere along the now dry river bed.  Eventually as the bush thickens, we lose sight of her – it’s time to leave her in peace anyway!  Time also for a pit-stop – or as some might politely put it – time to check the vehicle’s tyres!!

We think Senna is kidding us when, having settled back in the vehicle, he points to a tree at least 200 yards away, claiming to see another leopard!  Sure enough lazily reclining on a horizontal branch, shrouded in shade, panting as a result of his very full stomach, lies a large male leopard.  The remains of the wildebeest carcass firmly secured in the web of branches behind him, what amazing strength these beautiful creatures have!  He’s not going anywhere for quite a while!  But its time for us to move off, the wildlife safari paparazzi among us having photographed him from every angle!

Julius will be so mad when we tell him that the day after he left we found not one, but two leopards!  Although we will enjoy teasing him, we fully appreciate that, conscientious and all as he is, Julius cannot know every square kilometer of every Kenya safari reserve and that the local guides are bound to have more detailed knowledge of their local area.  As we meander along, we learn that Daniel, our guide, as well as having extensive general wildlife knowledge is an accredited rhino specialist.  He also talks about the local customs and culture – his youthful idealism shining through – I’m sure he will help to make the world a better place!  

As we watch a small group of silly gnus run hither and thither, x-ray eyes, Senna spots two relaxed young lions concealed amid the shade of a bushy outcrop eying the gamboling wildebeest with disinterest – they must have had a good meal recently as they are easily within striking distance!

Then it is time to head back to the lodge for a relaxing soak in the hot tub, strategically placed on the deck of our tent or perhaps a massage would be an appropriate end to the last day of our current Kenya safari.

We bid a fond farewell to our Kenya safari driver, who in the last eight days has become our friend.  Cautioning him to drive carefully on his long (in terms of endurance rather than distance) journey back to Nairobi!

After introductions are made to our new guide Daniel and tracker Senna, we drive out through the Mara gate through the gauntlet of locals peddling their beaded wares.  Mara Bushtops, our next Kenya safari destination is located in a Conservation area adjacent to the Masai Mara, a 15 minute drive from the Sekanani gate.  Georges, the French manager gives us the run-down on the protocols and introduces us to our private butler who leads us to our tent, one of only 12, all of which command a sweeping view over the conservation.  We are glad to grab a couple of hours of down time as our familiarization Kenya safari has been anything but a holiday.  So we are delighted to recline for a couple of hours in the most unusual tent we have ever seen, being as it is, open on three sides (during the day).  No detail appears to have been missed in setting up this Kenya safari lodge – which even extends to decorating the brilliantly white towels with curled red hibiscus buds! 

Eventually it is time to uproot our rather unique “do not disturb” sign – an asagai (Masaai spear) stuck into a hole in the entrance path to the tent and head out on our afternoon game drive, a very leisurely affair around the conservation. We sit and watch a group of 5 retired general buffalo chomping away!  As they move off, a small herd of elephants meander towards the waterhole, preferring to walk downwind to better cool their ears!  Elephants are such fascinating creatures, we could watch them all day but as the sun is setting, it’s time for our sundowner beside a blazing fire – Africa’s 1 channel TV!  As we tear ourselves away from the mesmerizing flames, the cry of an owl pierces through the tranquil dusk – the ominous sound apparently heralding the death of someone nearby! 

Thinking that dinner in all Kenya safari establishments is a rather casual affair, at least in terms of attire, we decide not to change for dinner!  Big mistake we realize too late as we are welcomed into an elegant stone building that now serves as the dining room, complete with sparkling glassware and white tablecloths starched to within an inch of their lives! 

The dining room’s décor has us fascinated with teardrop shaped lights suspended from the branches of a now (obviously very dead) tree, French windows opening out onto the veranda that accommodates less formal dining and everything cheered by a blazing fire in the enormous hearth.  Consistent with the elegant accommodation, the menu, presentation and taste of the delicious food would not be out of place in any city based gourmet restaurant!

Mindful of our full-day Kenya safari commitment tomorrow, we decide it is time to call for our “taxi” home!  Almost instantly our Askari appears wielding the spear with which he will defend us should any nearby predators seek to put us on their menu!