Message Stick > November 2011
JMA’s Musings!
Well hasn’t Qantas caused some major inconvenience to International travellers?!! We were very lucky as we had nobody due to fly back on Saturday or Sunday so none of our clients were personally affected. This dispute has, of course, cost tourism a fortune and I am delighted that we are not involved in inbound tourism to Australia. My colleagues are doing it really tough at the moment as they have been impacted by many adverse conditions. The high A$ negatively affects inbound tourism but of course benefits us as an outbound tour operator.
We do at least have alternatives to Qantas when flying to Africa but the direct QF flight to and from Joburg is very convenient. However SAA fly from Perth directly and then we have options through Singapore and Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. Emirates also have a very convenient service to East Africa via Dubai. Whilst at first glance it may seem as though going through, for instance Singapore, adds a night to the trip the “night” part is spent flying to Joburg and arrives early enough to enable one to head straight off without an over night in Joburg. Six of one and half a dozen of the other!
We have had a lot of demand for travel into East Africa from July through to October next year. It amazes me that we are already having availability issues with lodges in the Masai Mara and the Serengeti. Some are fully booked in August! This is the peak of the Wildbeest/Zebra migration in the Mara so it is not entirely unexpected. So if any of you are planning a trip next year it is definitely not too early to plan and book now. We have even had some people contact us, after having already booked their flights, to arrange a safari as soon as three weeks away!! We obviously cannot guarantee accommodation at the best lodges on this basis.
We are getting more interest in climbing Mount Kilmanjaro. For those of you who enjoy this type of activity it is a great way to start your East African safari. A climb then a days rest at the Coffee Lodge in Arusha before heading to the Serengeti and Ngorongoro. Try it!!
We are delighted to have received truly complimentary e-mails and phone calls from our clients who have returned home over the last month. This really makes our day and ensures that we strive even more to attain the perfect safari for our clients. I received the following comment from Mark Temple-Smith last week and the remark in italics brought a smile to all of us:
“I would like to thank you and all at Destinations Africa for putting together what was a wonderful and unforgettable holiday. It always intrigues me that a few emails and phone calls to people we never meet results in people greeting you in far flung corners of the earth, plane tickets with your name on it, accommodation expecting you and drivers waiting to transport you over borders and into remote game parks!. Your organisation was wonderful and apart from a plane to Kruger not flying all went without a hitch, which made our travelling experience easy and very enjoyable. We really did appreciate the itinerary that you put together and the 3 night stay at each place was perfect. The 3 game parks were also very different and we felt that we had a glimpse into different parts of Africa.
I thank you for your professionalism and will have no hesitation in recommending you any of my friends who I can persuade to venture into Africa.”
I guess we have to thank technology for being able to get it all together – intriguing when you think about it!
Until next month!
John
News from Savanna.
With acknowledgement and thanks to Paddy Hagelthorn and the Savanna Team, Neil Whyte, David Wilson and Greg Coates for amazing photos.
It has been another bumper week at Savanna! The weather is warming up and the bush is rapidly turning green. This is particularly true of the area that was burnt and the game on this area is responding just as quickly! The large herd of buffalo generally prefers longer grass, but when new lush green grass is on offer, they do not turn it down!
The warthog have also been enjoying the new growth and a male with very large tusks was seen on Mackenzie Airstrip.
Even though it has been warming up, we have had a couple of sightings of the territorial hippo around Savanna, out of the water in the early morning. It is a very relaxed hippo and we had fantastic viewing of it as it slowly lumbered back towards the water.
We also had an amazing sighting of a small hippo calf at Cutline Dam, sunbathing on the edge of the dam. It was also really relaxed around the vehicle and we got very close to it, while some oxpeckers did a grooming session on it!
Very sadly, the three Mapogo brothers were found two days later, having killed it not too far from Cutline Dam. This did, however, make us wonder if the young calf was perhaps ill and rather weak, rather than relaxed, as we thought a few days earlier. If this was the case, it is a good example of Nature’s rule of the survival of the fittest.
Speaking of the survival of the fittest, there was another case of this tough rule when we found the carcass of a rhino killed in a territorial fight not far from Savanna. As there were no lions near enough to smell the carcass, the vultures had a field day, and came from far and wide, as soon as the word got out.
There must have been in excess of 150 vultures, which were mostly white-backed vultures and hooded vultures. Two white-headed vultures and at least seven of the rare and endangered cape vultures were also at the carcass. It was a feeding frenzy, with spectacular views of the vultures descending onto the carcass from miles away, and then fighting for position at the carcass.
It did not take long for the hyena to find the rhino and we had fantastic viewing of these skulking creatures around the carcass.
Tlangisa was found a few times this week. She had an impala kill near Ebony Dam, and during the first afternoon of viewing rested on top of a termite mound with quite a bit of vegetation around her. This limited our viewing of her, which all changed the following morning. Some hyena had again followed their amazing sense of smell and discovered her with the kill sometime during the night.
She must have seen or heard them coming and had time to drag the kill up a nearby marula tree. This was far from the ideal tree to climb, but it served its function in keeping the kill safe from the hyena. It also had very little cover, which gave us fantastic views of Tlangisa up the tree, which is the kind of sighting we have come to expect from this fantastic leopard!
She was found again a few days later, posing spectacularly once again in the perfect marula tree, with blue sky in the background! From her vantage point, she spotted a herd of impala and descended quickly to start the hunt. We spent over an hour with her, watching from a distance, as she patiently stalked the herd. We eventually decided to leave, as we had very little view of her and did not want to disturb the attempt. We returned later to see if she had been successful, but was unable to find any sign of her.
Hlabankunzi has been seen a few times as well. On one occasion, while walking around in the central areas, she was suddenly chased up a tree by one of the Ximungwe lionesses. The lioness did not hang around for long and, as soon as it was safe to come down, Hlabankunzi headed directly away from the direction in which the lioness had gone, trying to get as much distance between them. After 15 minutes’ steady walk, she came across a large open rock, where she drank quickly from a rock pool and then settled to cool down.
The Xinzele male has been doing well, but is still concentrating mainly around the river. This is undoubtedly where the highest prey density is, so there is not much reason for him to be moving around.
We had a few very interesting drives watching Metsi and the Day One male interacting. Metsi seems to be looking to mate again, and is flirting with all the males in her territory. Unfortunately for her, the Day One male is still only about three and a half years old, so he does not seem to know what to do. She proved to be more of an annoyance to him, and he spent two days trying to get away from her, while she kept trying her luck. Every time he tried to rest, she would sneak up close to him, to which he took serious offence!
His day did not get any better, as at one point it seemed he was just getting it right to sneak away from her, when he bumped into the Ximungwe lioness with the two oldest cubs! He quickly scurried up a marula tree to get out of harm’s way and the two one-year old cubs became very confident with mother close by. They were all pretty full, and as it was a warm day, the lions decided to rest for the day at the base of the tree with the male leopard in!
We eventually left the stalemate after a few hours and decided to return straight away during the afternoon drive. Here we found that Metsi had also been chased up a nearby tree, and the Day One male was still up the same tree with the lions resting beneath.
We returned again after dark to find that the lions had gone, but that Metsi had joined Day One in his tree, much to his disgust! At about eight pm, we left them still in the tree, with the Day One male having been in his tree for 10 hours!
The Tassleberry female was seen again this week, when she was found with a duiker kill not too far from Savanna. This allowed us two drives of viewing her and I am sure that this assisted in getting her much more relaxed around the vehicles.
The Ottawa pride, consisting of three females, was also on our property this week. We are hoping that they come across more often, and hopefully take over the southern region of our area, as the Ximungwe pride seems to be settling more in the north. These Ottawa females are very large females and are in extremely good condition.
As mentioned, the Ximungwe pride seems to be spending more time in the north, and on one occasion was found in the very north-west corner of our concession. After a long haul to get there, we were treated to a spectacular view of the three lionesses with five cubs on a large rocky expanse, known as Moon Rock. The late afternoon light provided great photographic opportunities of these playful cubs.
As summer approaches, evidence of the breeding season is everywhere. This week we have had wonderful sightings of many young, which are always a favourite of our guests!
The birds are also all in full breeding mode, with plenty of displaying and calling going on. One of the early breeders is the Senegal Lapwing, which takes advantage of the burnt areas to raise its young. They breed on the ground and rely on great camouflage of them and their eggs for protection. When a predator does come close to the nest, these brave birds have another defence, which is to cause a distraction away from the nest, and to feign injury in order to lure the predator further away from the nest. Once the adult feels it is a safe enough distance away from the nest, it merely flies off, leaving the predator very confused!
For a great video of this behaviour, click here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCoglBDZvcw
News from Zambia.
Thanks to Robin Pope Safaris
Georgie, the caterer at Robins House has had quite an eventful time. Let’s hear all about it…
“Earlier than usual and the rains have set in and it’s touch and go as to whether Bush Lunch will take place. But we are all guns blazing and decide that, if the skies are going to open, it will be an adventure and at least this will be a meal our guests won’t forget in a hurry! Vehicles here, there and everywhere, I’m handed the white Landrover – set for a makeover on this muddy drive. Plans for our location change though, as we see that Wamilombe (our original spot) is more than a little mud ridden and less than suitable to accommodate elegant safari wear and sensible shoes…On a day like this, I wish we had our wellies! However, with no radio to get in touch, we must hope that our guide has realised our change of plans. (silly of me to worry though as nothing escapes our guide Kanga Chepi!)
As we wait for our guests to arrive, Benson surveys the area. I know of no one with a better eye for the bush and he always discovers something exciting to wonder at as we wait. This time it’s lion tracks, ones that evidently were caught in the torrential rain of the night before – one perfect print, then another one that has slipped and regained it’s balance further on. Then, closer to the bank what looks like the remains of a scuffle with a hippo – this time it looks like he was lucky…
The guests arrive and we have a wonderful lunch, chatting away and exchanging stories – crocodiles in Burkina Faso (Are they really used to human nature and able to live alongside the people of their area? It can’t be true! Perhaps it’s witchcraft…the debate goes on..) And other such talk of all things weird and wonderful and places around the world that we’ve been and still long to go… So many places, so little time! Quite extraordinarily for October, we don’t finish until midday. Normally we’d be packed and away by eleven to escape the brutal heat of the October sun but fortunately we are enjoying a very welcome breeze.
Kanga and the guests set off in one direction and we in the other. Again I see that Benson has spotted something. “Is it an elephant?” I ask, looking at what I quickly realise is a tree stump.. Oh no, that’s no elephant. It’s three lions, one of which is a beautiful male with a mane that’s second to none. We slowly drive closer, lucky at this hour that we are the only ones there. They are peaceful and content, enjoying the weather that can otherwise be so harsh at this time. We then see one, two…no three more lions. They are regal, dangerous, calm and intense all the same time and this is a wonderful sight.
On our way back to Robin's House, when I thought it couldn’t get much better, I drive past something that catches the corner of my eye. Obviously I can’t resist the urge to reverse and see what it was, so I do. The biggest lizard I have ever seen and with colours most magnificent! It looks dead but I get out to have a look, I simply had to take some pictures! Benson and Loufeyo tell me not to get too close though, it’s highly poisonous! So, when I see it breathing it makes me leap back in terror, especially when I see it’s ferocious teeth! However, it doesn’t take long for me to realise that I’m being teased (story of my life) and this Blue Tree Agama isn’t in the least bit harmful. Kanga then explains that its look of death” is what he thinks is known as ‘Shaming,’ a defence mechanism used by many animals, such as cobras, to feign death and avoid hassle from predators. Nevertheless, he looks content enough, showing off his bright colours and basking in the midday sun, which has finally come out. In the middle of the road perhaps not such a good idea but then again, he’s hard to miss!
In the afternoon, my guests kindly asked me if I’d like to join them on a drive. A treat every time, of course I accepted. Not far from Robin’s House we saw some giraffe and birds of all kinds. Baboons behaving in the hilarious way they always do but it is clear to see how loving and protective they are of their young. We then crossed the river, through the water now as the river is so low that we’ve no need for the pontoon. Kanga, needless to say, drove though immaculately (us caterers are normally met with cheers as we complete the drive through, an achievement every time it would seem – Oh, all ye of little faith!).
No sooner had we made the other side did we see a whole herd of elephant on the river bank. They certainly put on a show as they wandered on down, their legs bending down the steep river steps, in a way reminiscent of a contortionist. Some then started lying down, as if the trial of the journey from land to water is all too much! Strange behaviour but interesting as the elephants of South Luangwa are said to lie down to sleep far more than any others on the continent. As they were all down, the Matriach then showed herself, as if making her grand appearance. Cool, calm and collected, she walked far beyond the point of entry of the rest, and with all the elegance you can imagine from an elephant, she walked down a far easier path – if only they’d listened to Mum! More funny larking around, walking backwards and littl’uns wrapping trunks round the tail ahead or otherwise not knowing what to do with it, the males then entered from the opposite side. Meeting at the middle and evenly spaced out, they formed what seemed like a dam of elephants, in all their glory, looking an awe inspiring sight.
After sundowners with a sky of clouds and silver linings, the spotlight went on and we headed back to camp. A couple more lions and a buffalo carcass that had fed, it seemed, almost every carnivore in the area.. Not always the most happy of sights but as we learn, it is the circle of life. Hippos, bush buck and a genet so much more. Another enchanting day in the bush. “
Thanks Georgie for sharing this with us.
Zambia is a fascinating destination with some beautiful parks and lodges. We have access to some of the best wild life areas in Zambia. The people are friendly, the lodges first rate and the game viewing exceptional. Getting there is easy from Victoria Falls.
The End!
I hope you enjoyed this read. Get your bookings in now!
Cheers.
John
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61 (0)411 749 627
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